Anchored in Calabar, savouring sips of Paradise
By MAURICE ARCHIBONG
Thursday, August 16, 2007

• Garden at Marina Resort Pix: Sun News Publishig

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Welcome to a taste of paradise. But just as every cloud has a silver lining, so some sparkle their dull sides too. That’s what our latest tour of Cross River State , Nigeria ’s famed "People’s Paradise " translates to.

There’s so much talk of how Calabar, Ikom, Obudu, Ogoja, Ugep and many other Cross River settlements had been transformed that any one that last visited any of these towns long ago would hardly find his/her way round.

However, much as a lot of work has been done to improve the standard of infrastructure in these parts, a lot more remains to be done. For example, streets such as Webber, Nelson Mandela, Ekpeyong Ekpeyong, et cetera are barely passable for a motorist. And these avenues are all in the state capital Calabar. The same could be said of numerous roads elsewhere, not to talk of the parlous condition of major roads in Cross River , which are the responsibility of the federal government.

Aside getting a feel of the roads, our visit to Calabar coincided with a traditional wedding, which we couldn’t but attend, for the purpose of some readers, who may not understand what Efik traditional costumes look like. Many Efik women, who have lived among the Yoruba, wear "Iro" and "Buba," but their native attire is "Oyonyon," an adaptation of the Victorian gown. "Travels" were also inside the Marina Resort Calabar, another landmark left by immediate-past Governor Donald Duke.

We also stopped by the state headquarters of the Nigeria Police, where the Police Public Relations Officer (PPRO), Mr. Tom Adama Okpoene, assured everything was being done to keep crime at its lowest and that investigations were ongoing as regards a homicide case that took place in Akparabong, near Ikom, some 215 km away from Calabar. Cross River State borders Cameroon ; this is why we again visited that hub of the Nigeria Customs Service (NCS) to see what was being done to curtail smuggling, which could pose serious threat to the growing tourism prospects of that part of the country and Nigeria as a whole.

Furthermore, we toured Tinapa, even as we returned to Cross River to see, if any effort had been made to protect the endangered Ikom Monoliths, which we drew attention to a few weeks ago. There, we gathered that the state government had ordered the immediate employment of the six gardeners and two security staff of Alok Open-Air Museum (AOAM), swept away in the curious "right-sizing" exercise currently racking the National Commission for Museums and Monuments (NCMM). After the workers’ sack, Alok Museum , which holds numerous precious stones were exposed to crass insecurity and its antiquities left at the mercy of thieves. From what we gathered, as things stand, the re-engaged staff would continue their work for the federal government-run commission, but are now on the payroll of the state government.

Aside efforts by Cross River government, the federal government apparently showed commendable responsiveness through the visit of the Minister of Culture, Tourism and National Orientation, Prince Adetokunbo Kayode to Cross River State last week. The minister was received at the Margaret Ekpo International Airport Calabar by Chief Edem Duke, President Federation of Tourism Practitioners Association of Nigeria (FTAN), Mrs. Florence Usang, State Director of National Orientation Agency (NOA), Mr. Nzan Ogbe, Acting Managing Director, Cross River State Tourism Bureau, among others.
Barely two hours after the minister’s flight touched down in Calabar, Cross River State Governor, Senator Liyel Imoke, seized the opportunity offered by the prince’s visit to his office to express worries over the condition of federal roads in that part of the country. Governor Imoke drew attention to the adverse impact of bad roads on tourism development in Cross River , when he observed that "90 per cent of the roads leading to various tourists sites in Cross River are federal roads, and these roads need urgent rehabilitation to facilitate tourism.

" Although the governor did not specify, the 210km Calabar-Ikom, Calabar-Itu, Ikom-Ogoja and Ikom-Obudu Roads are among major highways in need of urgent rehabilitation in Cross River State . Governor Imoke also alluded to the need to integrate National Parks in the state, which are also under the purview of the federal authorities into the tourism schemes of the areas, where such reserves are located.

Despite the problems posed by poor state of roads, power outages and so on, to tourism development, Governor Imoke, however, expressed confidence in the new minister’s ability to move the industry forward thus: "We have no doubt, whatsoever, in our mind about your capacity to deliver." The Cross River helmsman, however, reminded that tourism is not one body’s responsibility to develop but required concerted effort to bring it to the point, where it could yield invaluable dividend to the people of Cross River , and Nigeria as a whole.

Oil and gas will dry up but tourism earnings would remain tremendous, Imoke declared. The Cross River governor observed that the minister’s visit offered another opportunity for the people to showcase their wealth in the areas of culture and tourism, even as he hoped that Prince Adetokunbo’s tour would yield fruitful dividends.
Responding to the governor’s address, Prince Adetokunbo had thanked the governor, government and people of Cross River State for the warm reception accorded him, despite the short notice of his visit.

} The minister revealed he was in Cross River, to among others, take a ministerial look at what’s on ground and to discuss with local authorities with a view "to partnering with them." Prince Adetokunbo added his visit was also aimed at exploring ways of proper implementation of the New National Tourism Plan. The minister expressed the desire to work with Governor Imoke, using Cross River, which he described as "Flagship of Tourism in Nigeria," to realize part of President Umaru Musa Yar’Adua’s seven-point Agenda. The minister reminded that tourism is part of President Yar’Adua’s seven-point agenda to mop up unemployment, generate wealth and redress restiveness in the Niger Delta, through engaging the youth. To further drive home his determination to succeed, Prince Adetokunbo vowed: "I want to work so hard that, whoever, comes after me (as Culture and Tourism Minister), would know that someone passed through here.

When Governor Imoke said the minister’s visit was an opportunity to celebrate Cross River ’s endowments, he wasn’t kidding as was later proved last Friday evening, when Prince Adetokunbo and select guests were treated to generous offerings of food, traditional dances and drinks. Aside the minister, state governor, and chief host Chief Edem Duke, others at that reception hosted by Marina Resorts Hotel, included Mrs. Margie Reese, Mr. Mayo Adediran, Director of Museums (NCMM), Mr. Sonny Adaka, Curator of Old Residency, Calabar, Mr. Ogbe, Special Adviser to Governor Imoke; Mrs. Thelma Bello, former Board Member, Cross River State Tourism Board; Mrs. Clara Braide, publisher of Executive Travels.

During his three-day tour, the prince visited TINAPA, Marina Resort, Alok Open Air Museum , Obudu Cattle Ranch, among other tourist sites in the state. During an exclusive chat with "Travels" after the minister’s plane landed at the Margaret Ekpo International Airport , Calabar, Prince Adetokunbo explained it wasn’t his first visit to the historic town, although it was his maiden trip as Tourism Minister. Hear him: "It’s not my first journey to this town.

But it is always a pleasure to return to Calabar. The town is always enjoyable, and seems clearly made for tourism. The people and climate are all hospitable. Calabar is a beautiful town, it is a town that Nigerians are proud of, and the people of Cross River have done much for tourism in Nigeria ."

The minister may have rounded up his three-day visit to Cross River State last Sunday, but echoes of that trip would sound for a long time to come. Observers would also be on the watch for any positive fallout of that maiden trip by Prince Adetokunbo. Critics of the nascent President Umaru Musa Yar’Adua-led administration have wondered why the composition of the current federal cabinet throws up a few square pegs in a round hole.

In this light, many analysts are inclined to a pessimistic view of performance, at the end of the day, on the part of Prince Adetokunbo, who is a distinguished legal practitioner. Such observers would have preferred to see Prince Adetokunbo Kayode, who is a Senior Advocate of Nigeria (SAN), in the judicial service or Justice Ministry.

As to whether such critics were too hasty in their judgment, only time will tell. Ando so, the minister has come, seen and departed from Cross River State, which the prince described as "The Tourism Flagship of Nigeria," even as observers keep their fingers crossed as to whether or not his visit would make any difference.

Inside Tinapa
The much talked about Tinapa was on the itinerary during our latest trip to Calabar. Just in case any reader would rather misconstrue our impression of the so-called "Africa Premier Business Resort," we turn to Mr. Kenneth Zakka, a specialist nurse working at General Hospital , Numan in Adamawa State : "I have been hearing of Calabar and Tinapa, and am happy to say that after seeing it, it is a very wonderful place. In fact, even the white people, if they come hear, would be very impressed." Mr. Zakka had rued, though, after seeing Tinapa. "You know, if my home (Adamawa) was nearer, I would frequently bring my wife and children here on vacation."
Sauntering across the vernal environment, where concrete, steel a
nd glass post-modernist structures stand at peace amid well-kempt lawns interspersed with smooth asphalt-coated bordered by sidewalks, the muse that played in our mind was that former Cross River Governor Donald Duke came up with a good dream and worked toward its realization and Governor Liyel Imoke, Architect Bassey Eyo Ndem, Managing Director of Tinapa, and others now have to give the final push.

But that is not all: There’s something about Tinapa; it’s the sort of business that given adequate momentum could run endlessly with minimal intervention. But to get there all hands must remain on deck. Mr. Ndem, an architect, said they are. The current Tinapa MD, who assumed duty in June, said his appointment was akin to a return to his elements. For 16 years, Ndem was a principal partner of Sheltarch.

That architectural firm was rooted in Victoria Island, one of the nation’s most expensive highbrow neighbourhoods, aside their Abuja office. Apart from his architecture practice, Ndem is also chairman of Hitechpro, which runs a popular 24/7 cybercafé in Nigeria ’s Canaan City , and is the leading Internet Service Provider (ISP) in Cross River State . Interestingly, Hitechpro is only one of the several businesses in which Ndem has interests. It was from this world of the success-driven private entrepreneur that Mr. Ndem was called to serve his home state of Cross River in the capacity of Commissioner for Lands and Surveys.

It is worth noting that he served creditably, even though observers say he was relieved the tenure was but a brief digression.
Ndem says it is one thing to dream and quite another to bring a dream to reality, but they are not even chest-thumping yet, which is why all hands remain on deck to get Tinapa up and running as quickly as possible. From the outside, tons of money ostensibly went into the massive project. Whatever the cost, Nigeria ’s famed Cannan City has suddenly found itself a new city next-door and there could be no exaggerating the multiplier-effect on the local economy, when Tinapa comes on stream fully.

Wedding extraordinaire
On Saturday, August 11, we anchored at Number 2, Ekpo Eyo Street , off Uwanse Street , Calabar. Although we had planned to spend an hour there, it was impossible to tear away and before we knew it, six hours had rolled past. But it was one quarter of whole day spent in the most delectable of ways. Ever attended an Efik traditional marriage? That celebration of matrimonial union is one of the rare opportunities of a veritable insight into the cultural wealth of the Efik, Ejagham, Yakurr, Umon and other ethnic groups in the southern Cross River Basin . And so it was in Calabar last Saturday, where the occasion of the formal tying of the proverbial nuptial knot between former Miss Ebreye Enebieni Ana of Biase LGA and Mr. Chukwuma Ikechukwu Anyanwu and Igbo, working at the Owerri, Imo State branch of Guaranty Trust Bank.

The marriage solemnization once again brought to the fore the cultural prowess of the Efik and their cousins in various ways. The repertoire featured not only the culinary delights for which the people are famed but also their sartorial creativity. From the footwear to the head gear, with the quasi-Victorian gown (Oyonyon) between; the bride was a model of the creativity of indigenous haute couture. And so was the groom, even though he is Igbo, as Ikechukwu Anyanwu, his name, suggests.
Aside the splendid food, dazzling regalia, and drinks that flowed aplenty, the traditional musical and choreographic extravaganza also contributed to making the wedding, one that would be remembered for a long, long time.

Customs chief vows to make life hell for smugglers
It was at Customs House, near the Free Trade Zone complex in Calabar that "Travels" spoke with Comptroller Ola Ayanlaja, Customs Area Controller (CAC) of Akwa Ibom/Cross River Command of the Nigeria Customs Service (NCS). His day starts very early, yet he retires to bed rather late almost always.

What’s the sense in going to bed early, when insomnia is brought upon you by gnawing thoughts that you had left certain things you could have done, undone? To get a good night’s sleep, Alhaji Ayanlaja must clear his desk; the tray for files awaiting treatment has to be empty before he can go home happy. Throughout his secondary school and the years in two American Universities, in the states of Illinois and Texas , Ayanlaja was admired by fellow students for his prowess in table tennis and lawn tennis. Today, he misses both because, as he put it, "the job here takes all your time.

" But this is not to say that the man is complaining. Tight official schedules have put a virtual halt to his love of ping-pong and the game that made the likes of Arthur Ashe, Boris Becker, Martina Navratilova, Royer Federer the Williams Sisters (Venues and Serena) and many more world sport stars, but Ayanlaja is still fit and trim, and as his subordinates revealed, "alert as ever." Nonetheless, the CAC said he was happy.

Comptroller Ayanlaja had good reasons to be cheerful: It is not often that a command records three seizures within a seven-day period. The CAC revealed the duty paid value (DPV) of the various items seized between July 31 and August 6, amounted to more than N3.1million. The CAC added that apart from other statutory duties, officers and men in his command maintained a special watch at all border posts and jetties in his precinct.

Moreover, Comptroller Ayanlaja had barely a month ago carried out personal visits to major outposts in Akwa Ibom State . As if gingered by the CAC’s tour, the Oron outstation of that command recorded two seizures in four days. The first interception, on July 31, took place at Unyeghe Beach and resulted in the seizure of 100 gargantuan size bales of second-hand cloths, 77 pieces of used tyres and 20 bags of rice, each weighing 50kg.The CAC put the duty paid value (DPV) of the seized items at N1.6 million.

At the pre-dawn hour of 4am, normal mortals are supposed to be in bed or indoors, except for those on essential service. But it was at this unholy hour that some smugglers were busy trying to transship their illegal cargo at Unyeghe Beach in Oron. Unknown to the economic saboteurs, word of their intention had leaked to customs officers in the Akwa Ibom/Cross River Command, who consequently swooped on the area. On sighting the customs squad, the smugglers abandoned their loot and fled.

The officers subsequently hauled in the items, which were later transferred to Government Warehouse Calabar. Barely 72 hours after aborting the smugglers’ attempt at Unyeghe Beach , another band of illegal importers also met their Waterloo at Oron on August 3, where the local crack squad intercepted over 80 bales of used cloths worth some N1.115 million. Not to be outdone, some officers at the Ikang Border station of the AK/CR Command also reined in more than 200 bags of rice valued at over N415, 000, according to Comptroller Ayanlaja.

Comptroller Ayanlaja enthused he is happy, when his presence or leadership contributes to improvement. As its name suggests, the Cross River/Akwa Ibom Command of the NCS covers two states. The situation there is made more challenging by the presence of several marine and land borders such as Ekang, Ikang and Mfum ( Cross River ) as well as Oron in Akwa Ibom. Expectedly, this command’s logistic needs would be vast.

As to how his men were coping, CAC Ayanlaja admitted the challenges are numerous. Hear him: "The Service (NCS) is trying, in terms of incentives. Officers and men have been directed to put in their maximum. I try to use what I have to get what I want. We are still thankful to the CG (NCS Comptroller General Jacob Gyang Buba) for all that we have."