Return to Sokoto
By MAURICE ARCHIBONG
Thursday, November 15, 2007

•Neat and sweet, a street in Sokoto.
PHOTOS: MAURICE ARCHIBONG

For weeks, I had been planning to publish select reactions by readers sent to my mailbox. But time and space were two major constraints behind my inability to share this feedback.

At some point, I thought of making this selection part of the review of this year’s "Travels," but realizing they would be too numerous to accommodate, it became necessary to release them piecemeal. Interestingly, these excerpts from my inbox dovetail with today’s "Travels," which is also a mosaic of some sort.

The readers’ reactions came in various forms; calls, text messages and e-mails but virtually all published below were text messages. Mr. Oscar Ugwu, a Nigerian publisher based in the Ghanaian capital, Accra phoned to encourage us, and Ms.
Umebe Onyejekwe, a former deputy director of National Commission for Museums and Monuments (NCMM), sent an e-mail describing one of our reports as a "Fantastic write-up!" Not surprisingly, AFRICOM, Africa Council for Museums, and related bodies and even foreign universities, sometimes circulate our reports to members and affiliates around the world. The individuals that sent reactions to our reports ranged from lawyers, fellow reporters/writers, journalists, and officers of various paramilitary agencies, including an Assistant Controller General, who accused us of bias! I plead not guilty…

Today’s travelogue aims to serve as a guide to hundreds of Nigerians and even foreigners billed to attend this year’s Controller General of Customs Conference, which opens in Sokoto on Monday November 26. Although a revisit to Sokoto, alias "Seat of the Caliphate," is our main story today, we have other reasons for returning to this transformed northwestern Nigerian city. Apart from the major topic, we also have a report on the views of the Director General of the Nigerian Tourism Development Corporation (NTDC), Otunba Olusegun Runsewe, on in-flight meals and how to grow tourism generally.
It is impossible to talk about the Nigerian economy without tourism, and any serious discourse on that sector, which seeks to downplay the role of the NTDC, would be incomplete. The NTDC has been able to do so much in recent times; these are among the reasons, we are reporting on this agency in two consecutive weeks.
Last week, we did promise to guide the reader through the Sokoto outpost of the National Gallery of Art (NGA) during our travelogue on this city, so today’s report naturally incorporates that aspect, among other images from the "Seat of the Caliphate."

The venue of this year’s Comptroller General (CG) Conference is Sokoto State Polytechnic Auditorium, and Public Relations Officer (PRO) of the NCS, Mr. Wale Adeniyi, said the summit would revolve around the theme "Toward the attainment of 48-hour clearance." Mr. Adeniyi, a Chief Superintendent, reiterated that the summit is a necessary forum to take stock of the previous 12 months as well as strategize for the forthcoming year.

The theme of this year’s conference, "Toward the attainment of 48-hour clearance," sounds very interesting, but the scoff of cynics would be, "Easier said than done." Longer hours at the ports translate into higher costs for the clearing agent, who passes it to the importer, who in turn sends it down the consumers’ throat. Ostensibly, it would be to everyone’s benefit, if goods could be cleared "in a minute," if possible. However, a concert of several and multi-dimensional factors conspire to thwart speedy clearance of goods. Frequently, several stakeholders are wont to pass the buck, blaming the Customs or other government agencies of deliberately slowing down the process with a view to extracting kickbacks. On the other hand, personnel of Nigeria Customs and other security organs point to the propensity for dishonesty on the part of certain importers or agents as reason behind the delays.

The deficient state of infrastructure is also often blamed for contributing to snail-speed delivery of goods. Such inadequacies include power outages, absence of technological gadgets and other facilities like the absence of an Examination Bay, for example, which leads to the examination of goods along the Seme-Badagry-Lagos Expressway, causing avoidable traffic bottlenecks and exposing officers to risk of being knocked down. The Nigerian government has also been accused of creating additional bottlenecks with its establishment of too many agencies at each port.

Hear one agent’s exasperation: "In neighbouring French-speaking countries, by the time you finish with two government agencies, Police and ‘Douane’ (customs), your goods are released. But in Nigeria, we have to go through Customs, Police, Immigration, SSS, NAFDAC, SON and very soon, they may introduce DAUGHTER for us to deal with before our goods are cleared!" But the reaction of government authorities to such complaints is often predictable, as could be gleaned from the outburst by NCS Comptroller General Elder Jacob Gyang Buba, who during the 2005 NCS Week, said, "every Nigerian is a smuggler." Speaking on the third day of the usually five-day annual conference the NCS chief observed that many people complain about checkpoints without thinking deeply about the reasons behind the mounting of such roadblocks.

Welcome to Sokoto, where for five days (Monday 26 to Friday November 30, 2007), NCS would be the cynosure of manufacturing, international trade, clearing agents and maritime industry watchers. Aside NCS bigwigs, the yearly Customs’ chiefs summit also attract participants from relevant ministries of the Nigerian government as well as of operatives of international bodies such as UNCTAD (United Nations Conference on Trade and Development), World Customs Organization (WCO), etc.

The CG confab frequently throws up confounding curios, and Sokoto is not likely to be different. As usual, the NCS is expected to read its score card, which traditionally includes the amount of revenue grossed over the last 12 months, success at suppressing smuggling, et cetera. But, as the NCS reels out its list of myriad achievements, there will certainly be moments of sober reflections.

For example, although the Customs annually collect billions of dollars into the federation and non-federation accounts, analysts remain worried that the overwhelming percent of these levies come from import duties.
Heavy dependence on importation contributes to capital flight, and connotes under-development, whereas huge collections from Excise Duty indicate vibrancy of the local manufacturing sector and, by extrapolation, job opportunities amid wealth creation.
In 2005, for example, the Nigeria Customs Service (NCS) comptroller general revealed that the agency grossed almost N260 billion in the first three-quarters of that year.

This figure, the C-G continued, was "N21, 246, 516, 404.10 higher than the amount collected into the Federation and non-Federation accounts in 2004." However, the Customs helmsman expressed worries about the Nigerian situation, where the value of exported goods account for a paltry 5 percent, against 95 per cent recorded for imports. Elder Buba, who described the situation as unhealthy, said the NCS wished the reverse of this disparity, which he called, staggering, were the case or at worst that the high imports’ volume was matched by equally high exports.

It also came to light during the 2006 CG Conference, held in Otta that 10 months into the operation of the new import guidelines called Destination Inspection (DI), an instrument devised to enhance revenue collection, consolidate on security and fast track clearance, among others, there was still no legal statute backing the modification. Among other curios that came to light at last year’s CG Conference was the disclosure by Comptroller General Buba that some "commercial banks have been known to issue fake receipts."
Many stakeholders, especially clearing agents, also chorused another obstacle placed by commercial banks, has to do with delays in issuance of a risk assessment report (RAR), and processing Form M, both prerequisites for any import coming to Nigeria.

Expectedly, many other issues will also surge to the fore at this year’s CG Confab. For example, Customs top brasses are meeting in Sokoto amid lingering anxiety among African nations over the December 2007 deadline concerning the signing of an Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA) between the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) nations and the European Union (EU). Elder Jacob Buba revealed this during the opening of an Experts Meeting, preparatory to the 3rd Ordinary Meeting of the African Union (AU) sub-committee of Directors General of Customs, which held at the ECOWAS Headquarters, Asokoro, Abuja from May 7 to the 11th.

"Are we, as a bloc, ready for this agreement?" queried Buba, while speaking at the opening of the preliminary session. The NCS boss had further revealed, "intra-African trade accounts for barely 10 per cent of trade in the continent." Could African nations, therefore, claim to have thrashed out every ramification of the impact of EPA," Buba wondered. His worries were partly based on the realization that in the light of the EU being over 50 years old, the Europeans must have, over the years, ironed out the details and strategies for such agreements.
From November 27 to December 1, 2005, when the Ogun State town of Otta played host to thousands of participants in last year’s CG Conference, it was the first time the summit took place outside a state capital. The theme for 2006 was, "Destination Inspection: Tool of trade facilitation."

It could be recalled that in 2003, the confab held in Owerri, Imo State. The following year, 2004, all roads led to Nigeria’s famed Canaan City, Calabar, capital of Cross River State. And in 2005, the Plateau State capital, Jos, lived up to expectations. Evidently, all previous gatherings had taken place in state capitals, and not surprisingly, the NCS has returned to the status quo ante with the choice of Sokoto.

Usually, the NCS Comptroller General Elder Jacob Gyang Buba leads hundreds of that service’s personnel at the annual gathering, which would draw the majority of Customs top brasses outside their posts. Those expected to attend include all the Deputy Comptrollers General (DCG), and many Assistant Comptrollers General (ACG), like Adamu Rabiu, Sani Nuhu Abubakar MFR and Ezekiel Okeniyi. Comptrollers Ali Wakili mni, Dikko Inde Abdullahi, Ola Ayanlaja, O. O. Eneh, Rasheed Taiwo, Mulikat Adegoke mni and Tahir Audu Musa are among Customs Area Controllers (CAC) likely to attend the summit. Aside NCS chiefs and lieutenants, officials of the Federal Ministries of Finance, Industry, Commerce and all stakeholders, especially members of the Association of Nigeria Licensed Customs Agents (ANLCA) et cetera would also be there.

Sokoto: Where to stay and what to see
In less than eight years since the debut of the annual CG summit, the NCS has contributed immensely towards fostering national unity by taking Nigerians around their country. Although the confab is normally a serious affair, a time for stocktaking and sober reflection, even as strategies are fine-tuned for a better performance in subsequent years, the gathering also throws in recreational sessions to help participants unwind. Although Sokoto does not boast a vibrant station of the National Museum, like Kano’s Gidan Makama or Katsina’s Old Teachers Training College, there’s no doubt that Sokoto would not disappoint, for this city boasts a lot to see.
Visitors to Sokoto need not panic over where to stay: Sokoto boasts at least 14 notable hotels, and the city has a relatively low crime rate. Hotels in Sokoto include Mabera, University Guest Inn near Othman Dan Fodio University (ODU) Campus, Ibro Hotel, along Abdullahi Fodio Road, Shukura Hotel (Gusau Road), Sokoto Hotel, Dankani Guest Palace and Sokoto Guest Inn both along Kalambaina Road, Gingiya Hotels along Western By-pass and Sokoto Rest House, behind Shukura Hotels. Five or six of these lodges are private enterprises, while the rest are government properties, and each of these lodges, offers accommodation with en suite toilet/bedroom, A/C, Satellite TV and a refrigerator.
Curiously, there is no association of hotel proprietors in this northwestern city, despite the relative plenitude of inns in Sokoto. However, Mr. Ibrahim Dankani, General Manager of Sokoto Guest Inn, said there were "plans in the pipeline to have one." Breakfast, comprising potato chips, omelette, kidney, baked beans, oatmeal or cornflakes, bread and tea costs N900, while lunch or dinner come at N750 each. One of my guides in Sokoto, Mallam Garba of the local National Museum, also named Paila
Restaurant along Western By-pass among Sokoto’s famous eateries.

Art in the city

Aside private tourist attractions, Sokoto city holds an outpost of the National Gallery of Art (NGA). The NGA opened a specialized Gallery of Modern Islamic Religious Art (NGMIA) in Sokoto in February this year, and that outpost occupies suite 301 on the 4th Floor of Block 14, within the Shehu Kangiwa Secretariat, which stands in the Giginya area of town along the Western By-pass.
Mallam Ali Musa is keeper of NGA, Sokoto. The keeper, who spoke to "Travels" in Sokoto last July, revealed that this arm of the NGA may be one of the youngest, but it revealed its precocious side, when it organized an exhibition by local students on May 29, 2007.
The show, apparently in commemoration of the 2007 handover ceremony, took place barely three months after the NGA outpost berthed in Sokoto. Mr. Ahmad recalled that the exposition, which was hosted by Sokoto Teachers College, took more than two weeks preparations. The keeper named Sokoto State Action Committee against Aids (SOSACA), Yamaho Nigeria Ltd as well as Pepsi, which donated mineral drinks for participants’ refreshment, among leading sponsors of the exhibition. Students from various primary and secondary schools, who took part in the May 29, exposition also went home with certificates, Ahmad enthused.



 

 

 

 

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