Katsina: Splendid at
Sallah and always
By MAURICE ARCHIBONG
Thursday,
October 4, 2007
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•Gobarau
Minaret
PHOTOS: MAURICE ARCHIBONG
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Wondering where to go this Sallah? Go to Katsina, which holds
enough to thrill this season. But don’t be mistaken,
for it is not only during the festivities of Eid-el-Kabir
and Eid-el-Fitr that Katsina State throws up so much fun.
Katsina State and its capital Birnin (City of) Katsina always
have plenty to give all year round.
Welcome to Katsina! Car registration number plates celebrate
Katsina as Home of hospitality and you better believe it,
for it’s always fun to be in Katsina. Katsina is at
once the names of a Local Government Area (LGA) and an ancient
city as well as one of the 36 states, which, with the Federal
Capital Territory (FCT) make up the Nigerian Federation. Be
it at the local, city or state level, it’s always good
to be here because Katsina is special in many ways.
Do you know of Kokowa or Dambe? Never mind, if you don’t,
but we’re trying to forewarn that coming from a society,
where traditional wrestling and boxing are ancient forms of
entertainment, some of us are wont to believe that President
Umaru Musa Yar’Adua has comparative advantage over any
character that could be plotting his fall. Thus, one is optimistic
that when the imminent sound of Kuge, the war flute, echoes,
Nigerians would see that the head butcher (Sarkin Fawa) is
usually not the Lord of the Ring or Sarkin Dambe. You don’t
get our drift?
You need to understand Katsina. Ever heard of Kusugu Well?
In ancient Katsina, the people had a well but a menacing snake
(Ki) made it impossible for any one to fetch water except
on Fridays. As Providence would have it, Bayajidda or Abu
Yazid arrived in Daura and needed water for his horse. A local
woman explained that he would have to wait till Friday for
water because of the dangerous snake inside Kusugu Well.
What rubbish! Mallam Abu must have thought. So, he set out
for the well and dropped his calabash to draw water. The unthinking
animal seized the man’s gourd, and pronto! Bayajidda
pulled out the reptile and slew it, fetched the water he needed
and moved on. But is President Umaru Musa Yar’Adua Nigeria’s
new day Bayajidda? Only time can tell.
These were some of the reasons Travels went to Katsina. But,
as usual, we had several other plans.
Look to Katsina State for excitement amid low crime rate.
Whether in each of the state’s 34 LGAs or any quarter
of the old city, Katsina has more than enough to offer. Katsina
boasts remnants of ancient city walls and gates as well as
a National Museum, which is one of the most interesting outposts
of the National Commission for Museums and Monuments (NCMM).
This museum is actually housed in another National Monument,
the Old Katsina Teachers Training College (TTC). Commissioned
in 1922, Katsina College is the first such institution in
Northern Nigeria, and has immensely contributed to Nigeria’s
growth, going by its alumni register, which unlike any other
college in Nigeria boasts three heads of state, namely Sir
Abubakar Tafawa Balewa, General Yakubu Gowon and Alhaji Shehu
Shagari.
Other holders of exalted political offices that passed through
Katsina College include Sir Ahmadu Bello, Sardauna of Sokoto
and Premier of Northern Nigeria, Sir Kashim Ibrahim, former
Governor of Northern Nigeria, Alhaji Musa Umar Yar’Adua
(father of Nigeria’s current President) and the late
General Hassan Umar Katsina, the first Hausa man to attain
the rank of General, according to Dr Sani Abubakar Lugga,
author of Katsina Emirate at a glance.
There is no doubt that Katsina College has produced a blinding
constellation of old boys but the scoff of some cynics could
be that this school is therefore partly responsible for Nigeria’s
woes. However, it could also be rightly argued that none of
those mentioned above could be faulted, when it came to comportment,
decency and frugality, contrary to the tawdry conduct and
primitive inclination to materialism pervasive among contemporary
Nigerian politicians, who are predominantly phoney statesmen
and women.
This is one of the reasons we consider Katsina a Land of giants.
Interestingly, one school of thought posits that giant-sized
humans founded this city. We’ll soon come to that but
meanwhile, let’s continue with the charms of Katsina
City.
Want some thrill from the architectural prowess of our ancestors?
Visit Gidan Korau, the Palace of the Emir of Katsina. The
ruling Emir is Alhaji (Dr) Muhammadu Kabir Usman, who was
enthroned in 1981. Sources say Sarki (King) Mohammadu Korau,
the first Katsina monarch to convert to Islam, built this
palace, which is why it bears the name Gidan (House of) Korau.
The exquisite structures are surrounded by a wall and have
special gates but the one opposite Kangiwa Square is called
Kofar Soro. And what’s Kangiwa Square?
Any visit to Kangiwa Square this festive season would shed
more light on how our brothers and sisters in the north central
State of Katsina enjoy Sallah. Kangiwa Square, which stands
opposite the main entrance to the Emir’s Palace, is
covered not by grass but with interlocking concrete blocks.
And at times like this, it is the scene of numerous processions
and performances but at other times, young boys use the field
for soccer.
The local police headquarters borders one side of this square,
while a quaint block stands facing Sharia Courts on the other
side. One of my guides, Mr. Badamasi Abdullahi of Katsina
State History and Culture Bureau (KSHCB) recalled that the
antique and attractive building served as headquarters of
the local works department during the colonial era.
Katsina State Historical Guide I: Historical sites and monuments,
produced by the local HCB, states that this settlement was
founded around the 9th century. However, G. T. stride and
Caroline Ifeka, authors of Peoples and Empires of West Africa,
state that the original City of Katsina lay 18 miles (roughly
30km) southeast of today’s Katsina metropolis. Katsina
State Historical Guide I corroborates the view that the earliest
settlers probably lived some 30km from the present ancient
city, going by excavations from archaeological sites, notably
Durbi-ta-Kusheyi in Mani, an LGA neighbouring Katsina.
That source further submits among various hypotheses, one,
which offers that gigantic Hausa-speaking hunters known as
Adawa or Durbawa may have founded Katsina. Whether the ancestors
of the Katsinawa (people of Katsina) were giants or not, like
the historic Katsina College, this city has also produced
many giants as our summary of outstanding sons of this land
amply proves. But let’s take on another towering figure,
Gobarau Minaret, first.
Gobarau Minaret
Welcome to Gobarau Minaret. Now a National Monument, Gobarau
Minaret stands in Gobarau Quarters of Katsina City. Interestingly,
this tower once stood "somewhere between the Gidan Korau
and Cikin Birni (City Centre). Nonetheless, the current Gobarau
Minaret must rank among the oldest tourist sites in Nigeria,
if it was built in 1493, according to Dr Lugga, who holds
the traditional title of Wazirin Katsina.
It is popularly held that Gobarau Minaret was built between
1348-1398, during the reign of Sarki Muhammadu Korau, and
that this minaret is the remnant of a 14th century Central
Mosque, which also doubled as an academia of Islamic scholarship.
Thus, before Katsina’s capture by the Fulani in early
19th century (1807), this city was already a well established
and leading centre of trade and Islamic studies, as could
be gleaned from reports that a 17th century Moslem scholar,
Dan Marina, was one of this settlement’s beacons.
Local craftsmen, sources said, carried out the tower’s
construction using sun-baked clay and mud. Apparently, prior
to the great leaps in modern building technology, Gobarau
Minaret must have been the tallest building in ancient Katsina
and environs, and consequently also served as a watchtower
to enhance security as observers could monitor movement of
people in and out of the ancient city from the tower.
More charms of Katsina
Until its capture in 1807, Katsina was reputed for excellent
governance and advanced judicial system. Not only these, the
aborigines were, and remain, very courteous. And we are not
just talking about the ancient city but the state in its entirety,
for the average Katsinawa also places much premium on honesty
and sincerity. Be they from Daura, Dutsinma, Funtua, Mani,
Malumfashi, Mai-Adua and Musawa or wherever, the Katsinawa
are proud, sincere and considerate.
Katsina City also boasts Katsina Motel, one of the best lodges
in the country. Built during the colonial era, the tourist
would enjoy a pleasant stay at Katsina Motel any time: The
rooms are large and the blocks are surrounded by lush garden.
In fact, to know Katsina is to love her. Believe it or not,
these are just a few of the allurements awaiting the tourist
in the state capital alone, not to talk of myriad sites, traditional
wrestling and boxing contests and so on available across Katsina
State as a whole.
Of course, there would be fascinating Durbar in many parts
of Northern Nigeria this festive season but the north central
State of Katsina certainly couldn’t offer less, for
the City of Daura is believed to be the aboriginal home of
all Hausa people, going by Bayajidda Tales. Daura, it is said,
gave rise to other Habe (Hausa) cities, which, with the original
home constitute the fabled Hausa Bakwoi or seven legitimate
sons of King Bawo and his wife Queen of Daura. Historical
sources have it that the offspring of that union went on to
establish Katsina and the other cities namely, Biram, Gobir,
Kano, Rano, and Zaria. Bawo is said to have also sired seven
other children, who went on to found Zamfara, Kebbi, Nupe,
Gwari, Yauri, Kwararafa and Ilorin.
According to a celebrated history scholar, W. E. F. Ward,
"some say Ilorin includes the whole of the Yoruba people."
Interestingly, if Sarki Bawo had a daughter, no mention is
made of her in the cherished chronicle called Bayajidda Tales.
Soon, we shall lay Daura bare but let’s savour more
of Katsina City, homestead of Nigeria’s current President
Umaru Yar’Adua, this week.
Where exactly was the original site of Katsina? According
to Dr Lugga, Wazirin Katsina, that defunct settlement"was
located at a place called Durbi-ta-Kusheyi, a little distance
from present Mani Town." An old baobab tree called Kukah
Katsi, lost some years ago, used to serve as landmark of the
home of the earliest Katsinawa, Dr Lugga further revealed.
The author also offered that it is possible that Katsina evolved
from Katsi, name of the owner of the baobab tree.
Welcome to Katsina, where centuries ago, an official of an
estranged king’s court would strangle the monarch or
Seriki that fell out irredeemably with the populace. Subsequently,
a black ox would be slaughtered over the regent or Sarki-elect
as a cleansing ritual. It was believed that the slain ox’s
blood would sanctify the monarch-to-be, while the body of
the murdered king would later be draped in ox-skin and buried
in an upright position, according to historians G. T. Stride
and Caroline Ifeka. However, it must be noted that all these
practices took place before natives of this ancient city became
almost entirely converted to Islam.
Curiously, Katsina was the last of the Hausa States to become
Islamized. That eventual conversion was sequel to the evangelism
of Al-Maghili, a visiting Egyptian or Algerian Moslem cleric
in 1403, who succeeded in converting the then monarch, Sarki
Muhammadu Korau to Islam. Subsequently, that faith was made
compulsory for all citizens of ancient Katsina. In any case,
it is difficult to talk of Katsina without some mention of
the Jukun: "In 1671 and 1672, for example, Kwararafa
was strong enough to capture the cities of Kano and Katsina,"
according to Ward.
The current Ancient Katsina City comprises quarters named
in honour of tribes, trades, industry or occupations. Thus,
there is a quarter for each of the City’s seven, some
say eight, gates. The Quarters of Katsina are, or include,
Kangiwa, Galadaci, Gambarawa, Makudawa, Tsohon Kasuwa (Old
Market), Ungwar Alkali and Yar’Adua, while the City
Gates usually referred to as Kofar (plural Kofofi) are Kofar
Kwaya, Kofar Yandaka, Kofar Guga, Kofar Kaura, Kofar Sairi,
Kofar Durbi, Kofar Soro and Kofar Marusa. Each gate has its
own rich history, which should add to the tourist’s
thrill. Take Kofar Yandaka, for example: This is where Brigadier
General (Sir) and so-called Lord Frederick Lugard entered
Katsina with his troops and battled the original rulers to
surrender on March 28, 1903. A plaque affixed to a concrete
pedestal near one foot of Kofar Yandaka carries some information
on that "Triumphal entry" in both English and Arabic.
On that notice board, Lugard’s name is also followed
by a string of titles such as KCIV G.C.B DSO. However, the
locals seem far from impressed, for people have conveniently
turned the site to a urinal, and dump for other human wastes,
perhaps in contempt for the invader and his troops.
Yandaka Road runs through Kofar Yandaka and leads to Gafai
Masanawa (village of some of the earliest settlers). Further
on, the road connects the tourist with Ungwar Yari and on
to Kofar Soro (Gate of the Emir’s Palace) facing Kangiwa
Square. We were able to reap so much from our latest visit
largely due to the support of Mr. Abdullahi, Librarian at
KSHCB and Mallam Lawal Muntari Gawo, a Principal Assistant
Museum Education Officer at the Katsina station of the NCMM.
Mr. Gawo proved very helpful being a "son of the soil"
and has also been working at his current post since 1998.
Katsina State HCB, Katsina State University and 35 Battalion
of Nigerian Army all stand along Jibiya Road, which leads
from Kofar Guga to Nagogo Road, where a left turn takes one
to Yar’Adua Quarters, where Family House of The Yar’Adua’s
stands. Somewhere along the way, the tourist would find Gobarau
Minaret heading from here to Lema Jubrilu Avenue, which leads
to Muhammadu Bashar Avenue, where Katsina Motel stands.
Katsina’s earliest inhabitants included scholars, students
and settlers from Gobir, Borno, Mali and Songhai. Sources
indicate these settlers actually attacked Katsina in 1513.
It remains unclear why they did so, but Leo Africanus, a famous
Arab travel writer, documented the consequences of that war
in 1526. The eventual defeat of Songhai by the Moors in 1591
not only freed Katsina from Songhai tyranny but also enhanced
the state’s importance as a hub of Islamic scholarship
in West Africa. According to Mr. C. O. O. Ugowe, author of
Nigeria: Her cities, towns and peoples, the decline of Timbuktu
also facilitated the rise of Katsina.
Katsina Hall of Fame
It is true that even in Katsina, mendicant children called
Al magiri still loiter around eateries waiting to scramble
over leftovers. But any one that has had the good fortune
of travelling across northern Nigeria would find their prevalence
very low in Katsina. To be sincere, Katsina is still far from
Paradise but there could be no exaggerating the pace of development
here and this city’s place in history.
Did you know that more than most other components of Nigeria;
Katsina has produced numerous leaders at critical levels of
service? Even a fleeting glance at Katsina’s who is
who, would reveal the extent that this state has contributed
to Nigeria’s development.
Giants from Katsina
In the sphere of contemporary politics, Katsina has thrown
up two heads of state for Nigeria. The first was General Muhammadu
Buhari, while the second is incumbent President Umaru Musa
Yar’Adua. General Buhari’s regime lasted from
January 1, 1984 to August 27, 1985 and observers believe that
had General Ibrahim Babangida not upstaged that government,
the Nigerian society would not have come to its current state
of near collapse. Critics attack General Buhari for draconian
measures taken to curb crime but none is likely to argue that
had he stayed in power for up to four years, the Nigerian
academia would not be in tatters today.
Regular supply of electricity would not be made to appear
impossible, while so-called leaders do nothing but loot the
treasury. Moreover, crime rate could not have come anywhere
near its current level. It is also possible that corruption
would never have been elevated to something akin to state
art and Nigerians would have been spared two decades of suffering.
But let’s not cry over spilt milk. Yesterday is gone.
And lost forever. But it would be tragic, if we allow tomorrow
to elude us also.
Perhaps, this is why Providence sent President Umaru Yar’Adua
our way. Aside giving Nigeria two heads of state, two sons
of Katsina have also served as Inspector General of Police
(IGP). They are Alhaji Ibrahim Coomassie and Alhaji MD Yusuf.
In fact, Katsina’s Hall of Fame is a large one. Justice
Umaru Abdullahi, current president Federal High Court and
former Chief Justice of the Federation (CJF), the late Justice
Mohammed Bello, as well as Justice Mamman Nasir, a former
President of the Federal High Court all hailed from Katsina.
In the military, Katsinawa have also attained lofty heights,
going by the names of late Generals Hassan Usman Katsina,
Shehu Musa Yar’Adua and Ahmed Daku as well as retired
Colonels U. F. Ahmed, a former Governor of Cross River State
and Abdulmumuni Aminu. Alhaji Lema Jubrilu, Dan-Iyan Katsina,
and late folk music maestro Mamman Shata Katsina are also
among the many giants that Katsina has offered Nigeria.
Where to stay in Katsina
Like most state capitals in Nigeria, Katsina throws up many
hotels. And akin to the situation elsewhere, some of these
lodges are large and others small: Some very expensive and
others quite affordable. Since we preferred to stay at Katsina
Motel throughout our visit, we turned to Mallam Ibrahim Abda
Sani, Assistant Director of Tourism in Katsina State Ministry
of Commerce, Industry and Tourism, for a list of select half
a dozen such outfits in this city. Mallam Ibrahim named Liyafa
Palace, near State Secretariat, Al-Bustan Hotel in Yahaya
Madaki area, Katsina Motel, Mohammadu Bashar Avenue, Kadama
View Hotel, Zambrush Hotel and Katsina Guest Inn among the
town’s leading lodges.
We preferred Katsina Motel because we found their large, flower-filled,
compound most refreshing. Moreover, quite unlike what obtains
in many parts of Nigeria, each suite at Katsina Motel is a
detached bungalow, while the single rooms, which are very
large is part of one of the many single floor duplexes.
It didn’t come as a surprise to learn that Katsina Motel,
which started out as Katsina Catering Rest House, is the first
hotel in this ancient city. Built decades before the colonial
rulers thought of granting Nigerians political independence,
Katsina Motel’s architecture is quite attractive and
quaint. Moreover, I am particularly enamoured with this lodge
because of the noiseless environment, courteous attendants
and good cooks. These would lure guests to any lodge any day.
Katsina Motel is one of my favourite hotels in Nigeria but
this is not to say that they have everything. To buy toothpaste/brush,
battery for your world receiver, photographic films and so
on, for example, you have to leave the comfort of the compound
because there’s no shop within the complex.
However, their meals were simply delicious. Whether it was
rice with chicken and salad, French fries and omelette or
"Tuwo da miyan," it was possible for me to clean
my plate: something I consider a rare feat in deed. I was
able to eat up almost always because the restaurant of Katsina
Motel does not pose "culinary terrorism," which
sadly is becoming the fashion in many parts of Nigeria now.
That you can’t eat food, unless it’s overflowing
with pepper is no reason to expect others to suffer with you.
Unfortunately, at many Nigerian restaurants, one is left feeling
the operators are simply inconsiderate. Now, must one cry,
after parting with hard-earned money before putting hunger
at bay? Apart from their delicious meals and vernal ambience,
I also found the rates at Katsina Motel commendably reasonable.
At the cost of N4, 000 (N4, 500 inclusive of deposit) per
single room or N5, 000 (N6, 000 plus deposit) suite, who could
ask for more? Go to Katsina, you’d be glad you did…
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