The Sun News Online

Believe it or not, despite being the home state of some of Nigeria’s most prominent artists, Delta State does not have a state-owned theatre complex. Some 16 years after the creation of Delta State, this oil-rich political entity, home of Bruce Onobrapkeya and Demas Nwoko, two of Nigeria’s few visual artists of world renown, is yet to build a state theatre.

Onobrakpeya, who hails from the Urhobo town of Agbarha-Otor, and Nwoko, the famous son of Idumuje-Ugboko near Isele Ukwu are among the celebrated modern Nigerian master artists known as Zaria Rebels. Zaria Rebels refers to pioneer art students of the then Nigeria College of Arts and Science, which metamorphosed into Ahmadu Bello University (ABU), Zaria. Ghanaian-born art historian, Kojo Fosu, reportedly coined the term, Zaria Rebels.

Delta’s famous stars of the younger generation include Professor of Art Osa Egonwa, Tee Mac Omatsola-Iseli, Rukeme Noserime, Romanus Isichei, Tony Umunna, Abraham Uyovbisere, Okwuoju El Dragg, Orits Wiliki and Ras Kimono. In fact, such is the plenitude of famous creative persons of Delta origin that a quick shortlist would be hard to draw.

Despite being one of Nigeria’s richest states, both in human and material terms, Delta boasts no House of Arts and Culture. As a result, the Delta State Council for Arts and Culture (DSCAC) operates from a rented compound, in spite of all the talk of this state swimming in oil-money.
To worsen matters, over the years, millions of naira has been sunk into adapting the rented compound, through the construction of offices, halls and theatre, to meet the needs of the DSCAC. All over, apart from the blocks mentioned above, the gigantic generator, the craft shop and generator house further go to show that the DSCAC was keen to keep up with the Joneses. Truly, even from a cursory look, the tourist can easily imagine that colossal sums had gone into developing the complex.

Unfortunately, however, when the local council for arts and culture eventually moves to its permanent abode, whenever and wherever that may be, it would be interesting to see how the many immoveable assets, which the DSCAC had spent so much to erect at its temporary site, would be taken along. The long and short of this, is that too many millions of naira had been poured into a temporary abode, whereas, if part of these resources had been invested in a permanent site, the DSCAC would not be virtually starting afresh, when it finally moves, as it is bound to do, someday.

Although Delta Council for Arts and Culture got a permanent site more than a decade ago, it was only during the era of Governor James Ibori that a perimeter fence was put around that parcel of land. This permanent site is close to the Cenotaph near Delta State House of Assembly. Albeit, Delta State Council for Arts and Culture remains a tenant in its own home, to this day.
On a more cheery note, it is worth noting that, while the DSCAC has been a tenant for decades, a good number of Delta indigenes are virtual landlords, when it comes to winning laurels in the arts and culture arenas.

Hear Mr. Emmanuel Oyemike Oduma, Head of Research Department, Delta State Council for Arts and Culture: “Our achievements include excellent performances in various national festivals. In the 1999 National Festival of Arts and Culture (NAFEST) held in Akwa Ibom State, Delta State won first position in the Regatta competition, which took place in Oron; Delta also won joint first position as Most Colourful Contingent. At Abuja 2007 Carnival, Delta was also adjudged the Best Attired Contingent. Delta shared that honourable mention with Akwa Ibom and Rivers State, enthused Oduma, who added that his state had many other garlands, garnered over the years, to show for her cultural wealth.

Delta Council for Arts and Culture
Mr. Steven Moeteke is the current Director of Delta State Council for Arts and Culture, which is presently supervised by Delta State Ministry of Culture and Tourism. Preoccupied by other engagements, Mr. Moeteke assigned that council’s head of Research Department, Mr. Oduma, to speak with us.

Oduma recalled that Delta State Council for Arts and Culture was born as an offshoot of the defunct Bendel Arts Council, which was set up via Edict No. 1 of April 1972. Interestingly, even though its period of birth reads January 1972, Bendel Arts Council actually came into being as part of preparations for participation in the 1977, World Festival of Arts and Culture (FESTAC).
Similar to the National Council of Arts and Culture (NCAC), DSCAC also travelled through several ministries. These include Delta State’s Ministries of Home Affairs, Information and Culture as well as Women Affairs and Social Development.

Homage to Asagba of Asaba
Welcome once again to Asaba, capital of Delta State. The paramount ruler of Asaba, Asagba of Asaba, is Obi (Prof) Joseph Chike Edozien. Born in Asaba, in 1929, Obi Edozien is the first sub-Saharan African to earn a Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) in mathematics, according to the African Mathematics Union. A direct descendant of Nnebisi, father of Asaba, Obi Edozien’s father was Nathaniel Okafor Edozien. The late Pa Okafor was one of the highest-ranking indigenous officials of the Enugu-based Nigerian Coal Corporation. On the maternal side, Obi Edozien’s mother, Nwakuso Edozien, is a daughter of the Odogwu clan. Odogwu was a prominent Asaba chief and a notable trader. We salute the Asagba of Asaba: Long live the King!

More images of Asaba
Did you know that Asaba once served as seat of the colonial government? Lest we forget: “On January 1, 1900, the Royal Niger Company, fore-runner of the United African Company (UAC), transferred its territories to the British government for the sum of £865,000.” This ceded territory, including the Niger Coast Protectorate, already under British Crown’s control, formed the two protectorates of northern and southern Nigeria.

That is how, on January 1, 1900 the British Crown assumed full administration of the territories hitherto under the sphere of a mercantile outfit. On that day, the Royal Niger Company’s flag was lowered and replaced with the Union Jack. This insignia was hoisted simultaneously at Mungo Park House, Asaba and Lugard House in Lokoja. From January 1, 1900 until several months into 1901, Mungo Park House Asaba served as the administrative headquarters of the Niger Delta Protectorate until its merger with the Oil River Protectorate to form Protectorate of Southern Nigeria, with headquarters in Calabar under Consul-General Ralph Moore.

Asaba sightseeing
The Delta State capital offers a lot to see, and the tourist can savour many of these sights just travelling along one avenue. This is Nnebisi Road, where at least five of Asaba’s tourist attractions stand or are located nearby. One of these sites is Mungo Park House, which from 1901 to 1910, served as Headquarters of Asaba Division as well as depot of an armoured constabulary. Asaba’s Mungo Park House had remained the Divisional headquarters and Depot of that constabulary of the Royal Niger Company until 1910. Around this period, Asaba people rose up in arms against the alien invaders, and after the suppression of that revolt, now popularly known as the Ekumeku War, the Royal Niger Company relocated its divisional headquarters to Ogwashi-Uku. Other attractions along Nnebisi Road or thereabouts include The Lander Brothers Anchorage, Grand Hotels and Resort, Ogbeogonogo Market and Oje-Ife Monument.

However, during one of my numerous constitutionals up and down Ezenei Avenue, the muse that crossed my mind was: “What you don't find along or near this road and Nnebisi Avenue probably does not exist in Asaba. But nothing could be farther from the reality. It is true that one could get virtually all his/her daily needs along both Ezenei and Nnebisi but who could forget that the Palace of the Asagba of Asaba stands elsewhere, while another very important office, Delta State Council for Arts and Culture is located along Umuaji Road. Similarly, Delta State Tourism Board is located along Anwai Street.

Okpanam Road, Asaba, seems to be the Washington DC of Delta State. Located along this road is the Delta State House of Assembly complex, Government House, Federal Secretariat, Delta State Secretariat, the local Cenotaph and what have you. Another busy spot in town is Ekumeku Junction, where the commemorative War Statue stands near Inter-Bau Construction Company. The Federal Medical Centre Roundabout, home to Oje-Ife statue, is also one of Asaba’s liveliest junctions. The tourist may also want to see the statue of Dr. Dennis Osadebay, late educationist and premier of the defunct Mid-West Region.
Asaba also throws up sand beaches along the banks of the River Niger, and there’s also the European Cemetery and Obi Nwoko’s Palace to see, according to Mr. Akarume Michael, Head of Planning, Research and Statistics of Delta State Tourism Board.

Asaba’s namesakes in other lands
Did you know that Asaba has a sister city in the USA? According to www.asaba.com, a website founded and operated by the Dallas, Texas, USA arm of the Asaba Progressive Front (APF), “In 2005, the Nigerian Association of Central California requested the Stockton Sister Cities Association to develop a sister city relationship with Nigeria. The following year, the Nigerian Association of Central California, Stockton Sister Cities Association and the Oshimili South LGA of Delta State began working together to build a sister city relationship. On March 6, 2006, the Board of Directors of the Stockton Sister Cities Association approved, eventually adding Asaba as the seventh sister city for Stockton, California.

On May 23, 2006, the Stockton City Council adopted a resolution to establish a Sister City relationship between Asaba, Nigeria and Stockton, California, USA. Located in the southwest US State of California, Stockton is headquarters of San Joaquin County. Sources indicate Stockton has a population of 279, 513 and is the 12th largest city in California. Stockton stands roughly 100km east of the San Francisco Bay area and 80km south of California State capital, Sacramento. Like Asaba, Stockton boasts an inland seaport.

Did you know that the Delta State capital also has a namesake in faraway Asia? Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, reveals the existence of another Asaba in the Asian nation of Japan. The Asaba of ancient Nippon is a special lodge-cum-resort, which was established several centuries ago. Someday, we plan to lay bare even this far-east Asaba.

Encounter with Asaba Museum pioneer staff
While touring the Delta State capital, we fortuitously ran into the Reverend Harrison Onyemali during one of our visits to Mungo Park House. We were already well acquainted because Onyemali worked for many years at National Museum Lagos. Aside serving at the Onikan, Lagos station of the NCMM, Onyemali made history as pioneer worker at Asaba station and also the first employee to retire from service at that outpost. More popularly known as Pastor, Onyemali entered Nigeria’s museum service fresh from secondary school.

He was just 18 years old at the time. Prior to his retirement in 2005, after clocking the mandatory 35 years of service, Onyemali was assigned to establish the Store at various National Museums, including those of Oron, Aba, Benin, Enugu, Ibadan and Lagos. As a result of his 35 years experience divided among NCMM headquarters and numerous stints at other outposts, this former museum worker-turned-cleric knows the NCMM inside out. In deed, it was Reverend Onyemali that formally took over Mungo Park House from Delta State Government authorities. Subsequently, Onyemali handed over the estate to the pioneer Curator, Mr. S. O. Imomouren, in July 1997. Consequently, his views ought to be taken seriously.

Asked his opinion on the perceived perennial under-funding of National Museums, Onyemali lamented that Nigerian governments’ priority was often misplaced. “The funding system in our museums is shameful. Even the stationery stores of NCMM are empty: No pens, no writing materials et cetera. It is shameful,” he remarked.
Onyemali, however, observed that the problems facing NCMM reached beyond the issue of inadequate funding. Onyemali cited poor maintenance culture among drawbacks plaguing museums in Nigeria. Hear him: “They can’t even preserve what they have. If government spent money to secure what we have, it will minimize theft at our museums.”
Onyemali, currently the resident Pastor of Okpanam branch of the New Covenant Gospel Church, agreed that modern security devices are necessary to complement the human effort.

Getting there
Driving at 100km per hour, barely 5 minutes after departing Asaba, the tourist is almost out of the Capital Territory of Delta State, Nigeria’s famed Big Heart. This fleeting period for traversing Asaba is an indication of the size of this settlement. Maintaining that speed, roughly 40 minutes drive from Asaba, shortly after Alifekede Town, the traveller would notice a billboard bidding him Farewell from Delta State, the big heart, every beat, a fresh breath for Nigeria.

Asaba stands about 30 minutes’ drive from Agbor with Umunede, Issele Ukwu, and Onicha Ugbo on the way, along Onitsha-Agbor-Benin Expressway. When we made that journey on October 6, 2007, the fare was N700 per traveller in a four-passenger VW saloon. Within 50 minutes, the Edo State Town of Abudu was being traversed, and into Evbobanosa, and Ugbogiri community market, some 50 minutes after take-off from Asaba later, Ugoneki, roughly 5 minutes from Ugbogiri.
We hit Adunhanhan at the dot of one hour from Asaba. Five minutes later, a sign welcomes you to Benin City. But urbanity is still kilometres away beyond Uguomwan town’s signboard. It would take some more minutes before we entered the Benin City end of the Benin-Agbor Road.

Acknowledgements
Often fun-packed, very exciting and brimming with adventure, Travel writing is not necessarily among the easiest of engagements. Aside being one of the most financially taxing ventures, there is also the risks and physical enervation inherent in travelling itself. The seasoned travel writer knows that even the weather could sometimes extend the assignment by a day or two. More often than not, the visiting travel writer has very little time to spare, let alone waste. For example, the direction of the sunrays based on the period of the day could well make the difference between getting a good shot or otherwise of certain sites, monuments or tourist attractions. Some objects offer best images, when shot at either pre-noon, high noon or post meridian. As a result, the loss of an hour could mean spending an extra day or two in town.

Sometimes, it is not possible to inform the prospective host of one’s plan to tour a particular station or agency, due to telephone connectivity difficulties. However, this could actually prove a plus because sending message of one’s impending visit to some agency might steal your thunder as the officials could carry out hasty window-dressing before the tourist’s arrival, thus robbing him of the opportunity of seeing things in their normal setting.

This is the reason, we feel obliged to commend the efforts of three of the respondents that Travels encountered during our mission to Delta. The men are Mr. John Oluwasegun Ogundele, Curator of National Museum, Asaba; Mr. Emmanuel Oyemike Oduma, Head of Research Department, Delta State Council for Arts and Culture and Mr. Michael Akarume, Head of Planning, Research and Statistics arm of Delta State Tourism Board.

Although we turned up at their offices, without prior notification, each man would exhibit rare diligence and enthusiasm, when it came to throwing up his office’s importance and contribution to society, a welcome contrast to the despicable non-challance or “arrogance” observed in the attitude of certain misfits planted at some state’s tourism bureau. To be candid, Ogundele, Oduma and Akarume left us impressed with the promptness, devotion and enthusiasm, which attended their attitude to duty.